I Live in One of Calabria’s Most Overlooked Mountain Towns. Here’s Why It’s Worth Visiting

I grew up in Cleveland, Ohio, and I’ve always considered myself a city girl. So, when I left the U.S. and moved to Italy more than a decade ago, I certainly didn’t expect to end up raising my family in a tiny mountain town in Calabria.

Rome was our first home in Italy. It had plenty of advantages, including public transportation, more English speakers and all the conveniences you’d expect from a major European city. But it was also chaotic and considerably more expensive. Eventually, we found Mormanno.

With fewer than 2,475 residents, Mormanno was unlike anywhere I had lived before. There were only a handful of supermarkets, one pharmacy, a few gyms, one bank and a small collection of schools. I wondered whether my family would fit into such a close-knit community.

More than a decade later, we’re still here.

Mormanno gave us something I hadn’t realized we were looking for: affordability, tranquility and a community where people know each other and are willing to help. It also happens to be surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountain scenery I’ve seen in Italy.

If your idea of Calabria begins and ends with its coastline, here’s why I think this overlooked mountain town deserves a place on your itinerary.

The mountain views never get old

Mormanno sits about 2,750 feet above sea level in Pollino National Park, with its historic center spread across four hills.

The mountains are the first thing I’d show anyone visiting me.

Even after living here for years, the views can still stop me in my tracks. “Breathtaking” almost feels inadequate. Depending on where you’re standing, layers of green mountains seem to continue into the distance. In winter, snow along the mountaintops transforms the view again, even though heavy snowfall in town isn’t particularly common.

Then there’s Mormanno itself.

The historic architecture, aging buildings and narrow streets give parts of town an old-world character that feels far removed from Italy’s major tourist destinations. Santa Maria del Colle, the imposing church on the main Piazza Umberto I, has roots stretching back centuries. The current site incorporates remnants of earlier churches, including one believed to date to the 14th century.

But Mormanno’s appeal, at least for me, isn’t about checking monuments off a list.

It’s about experiencing the town.

The piazza might tell you more about Mormanno than any attraction

When the weather is nice, people gather in the piazza.

They sit, talk, drink coffee, greet people passing by and laugh with friends they’ve probably known for years. Children play while adults catch up. It happens so regularly that it almost feels ritualistic, but in the best possible way.

People make time for one another here.

Coming from a city, that took some getting used to. Life in Mormanno moves at a slower pace, and eventually I learned to appreciate that rather than fight it.

If friends were visiting me from the U.S., spending an evening in the piazza would be on my itinerary. There’s no ticket to buy and nothing you’re supposed to accomplish. Grab a coffee or gelato from the local bar, find somewhere to sit and enjoy the atmosphere.

And for my fellow Americans, an Italian bar isn’t quite what you’re probably picturing. It’s where you might stop for coffee, a pastry or gelato during the day.

Spend some time outdoors

Living inside Pollino National Park means nature is a big part of what Mormanno has to offer. Hiking and mountain biking are obvious choices, while the wider Pollino area also offers more adventurous activities, including rafting and canyoning.

One of my favorite places to slow down is Lago del Pantano, a small artificial lake surrounded by Pollino’s mountains and forests.

My husband and I have taken lunch there, sat on the grass and simply enjoyed the scenery. You can make the visit as relaxing or active as you want. There’s a picnic area, walking space and a roughly 1.5-kilometer cycling path. The lake also attracts anglers and birdwatchers and has hosted canoe competitions.

Then there’s the Faro Votivo, which might initially seem strange in a mountain town. The lighthouse-like monument was built in memory of Calabrian soldiers who died during World War I and occupies a panoramic position above Mormanno.

For us, the surrounding area is also somewhere to spend time together, play basketball or soccer and enjoy the outdoors.

Come to Mormanno hungry

Food is one of the great pleasures of traveling through Italy, and Calabria certainly gives you plenty to explore. If you’re planning a food-focused trip around the country, this guide to the best food in Italy is a good place to start.

Mormanno has traditions of its own. Local specialties include cruschi (dried red peppers), lentils, fagiolo poverello beans, sausages, soppressata and bocconotti, small pastries that are so closely associated with the town that Mormanno holds an annual festival dedicated to them.

My personal tastes are less complicated. Give me arancini, risotto or pasta all’arrabbiata and I’m happy.

For places to eat, my family’s regular rotation has included Osteria del Vicolo, Alten Post, Pizzeria Santa Rosa and Agriturismo Donna Bianca. And when something sweet is in order, Pasticceria Snack Bar Le Delizie di Marper is another familiar stop.

Food here is part of the experience rather than something squeezed between attractions.

Summer is when Mormanno comes alive

If you ask me when to visit, I’m choosing summer.

Mormanno gets noticeably livelier as visitors arrive and families who have moved elsewhere return home, particularly around Ferragosto in August. Community events give everyone another reason to come together, and celebrations such as Notte Bianca can keep the town buzzing much later than usual.

Winter has a different appeal. It’s calmer, and seeing the surrounding mountains capped with snow is beautiful.

But for a first visit, I’d choose summer. The weather makes it easier to enjoy the mountains and outdoor activities, and you’ll see more of the social side of Mormanno that made me fall in love with living here.

A few things I’d want you to know before arriving

Mormanno is walkable, but the infrastructure is a bit different from a major tourist city. Some areas don’t have sidewalks, and pedestrians share the road with cars. That being said, the traffic isn’t crazy at all, and the cars are mindful of people walking along the road sides. 

You also shouldn’t expect businesses to remain open late. In my experience, many shops and everyday businesses close relatively early, often around 8 or 8:30 p.m., although restaurants and summer events can run later.

A car isn’t essential if you mainly want to experience the center of town. There is also a local shuttle bus. However, I’d recommend having a car if you plan to visit the lake, reach trailheads or explore more of Pollino.

And learn a few Italian phrases before coming. English isn’t widely spoken here. That shouldn’t discourage you, though. In my experience, people are patient and will make an effort to understand you, and having a translation app available can fill in the gaps.

You don’t have to choose between the mountains and Calabria’s beaches

I understand why Calabria’s coast gets so much attention. I’ve spent plenty of time in Scalea and Praia a Mare myself, and both offer a completely different experience from Mormanno.

Scalea has numerous lidi, restaurants and the amenities you’d expect from a popular beach destination. Praia a Mare is another favorite when I want to head toward the Tyrrhenian Sea.

If Calabria’s coastline is what brought you to the region, you can find even more inspiration in this guide to some of the best coastal cities in Italy.

But I’d make room for the mountains, too.

Mormanno isn’t trying to compete with the coast. That’s exactly why I recommend it.

Come here for mountain views, hiking, leisurely meals and evenings in the piazza. Come because you’d rather wake up somewhere quiet than fight through crowds. Come if you want to experience a corner of Calabria where everyday community life is still part of the attraction.

Italy has no shortage of famous destinations, and there’s certainly a place for exploring the country’s best cities to visit in Italy. But after growing up in Cleveland, moving to Rome and eventually settling in a Calabrian town of fewer than 2,000 people, I’ve learned that sometimes the places that surprise you most aren’t the big ones.

For me, Mormanno was one of those places.

I came looking for somewhere affordable and peaceful to raise my family. I ended up finding a home.