Sailing from England to France: My Experience Crossing the English Channel

As I live in Dorset and the crossing starts from Dover it made sense to travel to Dover the previous day. My pre-trip information from SailLink included details of Echoes, their boat, and its permanent berth. So, once I had settled into my Air B&B I walked to the harbour as I was curious to see my transport for tomorrow.

Echoes, is a catamaran with sails and its permanent berth is close to the RNLI station at the end of Marina Curve. As it is at the opposite end of the harbour from the ferry and cruise ship harbour I enjoyed a pleasant stroll along the sea front. I soon spotted Echoes as I walked down Marina Curve. I could not get down to the boat but had a good view from above

I was pleased to see there was plenty of seating in a covered area outside the cabin and sunbathing areas at the front of the boat – plenty of room for its maximum of twelve passengers. Passengers do not board here. They are picked up from a pontoon closer to the main promenade, next door to the large Bella Vita restaurant. This pontoon is guarded by a locked iron gate and passengers are requested to arrive there an hour before sailing time.

1. Getting Ready for My Crossing to France

The next morning was hot and sunny and I headed to the harbour to get some breakfast. As suggested in our pre-trip information I was dressed casually, shirt, shorts and trainers. As advised, I had packed a fleece as it gets cold out to sea and I had already applied plenty of sun cream. All I had with me was my small weekend case and my passport. I did not need to worry about carrying liquids in containers of 100 ml or less as there is no security check involved in this passage. And the size and weight of my bag were not an issue.

I knew that Echoes would be on the water before coming in to collect the passengers so it would be a great opportunity to get some photos of her under sail. When I got to the seafront, I found a refreshment outlet with tables and chairs outside and had a coffee and a bacon roll while waiting for Echoes to appear on the water.

2. Echoes, a Catamaran with Sails

When she came into view, I was so excited about my forthcoming voyage that I started pointing her out to complete strangers. Echoes is a 17-metre (57 feet) catamaran with sails. It is very stable much more so than a single-hull vessel that rocks and rolls once the sails are up.

There is plenty of room on board for a maximum of 12 passengers, their luggage and their bikes should they choose to bring them. Both luggage and bikes are securely stored inside the main cabin. Passengers bring their own food but hot drinks and water are available – just ask the crew. And there is also a toilet which is through the galley, in the only bedroom on the boat.

3. The Adventure Begins

I watched Echoes coming into her mooring and then made my way straight to the jetty. No security checks involved no passport control. Standing above the boat on the public path, I introduced myself to the crew and Andrew came to the gate to let me on to the jetty.

Andrew Simons is the skipper of Echoes and also the inspiration behind wind-powered Channel crossings to France. Once on board, I showed my passport to Andrew, and that was all the formalities completed. Then I was introduced to Arthur (skipper in waiting) and Dylan (deckhand). After storing my small suitcase inside the cabin, I sat outside in the shade and waited for the other ten passengers to arrive.

4. Meeting my Fellow Passengers

First to board were Susan and Bert, a retired couple from America on a tour of Europe. We were soon deep in conversation only interrupted by the arrival of Jonathan and Hannah, complete with bikes. After their bikes had been safely secured in the cabin and we were fascinated to hear about their plans to cycle through France.

A very diverse and sociable group was almost complete by the arrival of the remaining passengers including Tom from Kent and Tulasi and Leonard from the Netherlands. Just George from Edinburgh was missing but he was soon tracked down – enjoying a coffee in the Salty Dog Café.

Pre-departure notes suggested this as a meeting place for anyone arriving very early before making their way to the pick-up pontoon an hour before departure. As the skipper had all our contact details (and we had his) it was easy to keep in touch.

Setting Sail from Dover Harbour

1. Safety Instructions Before Setting Sail

Before we set sail each passenger was fitted with a life jacket. We were then given instructions regarding safety while sailing. In particular the use of the lanyard which we had to attach to a rail or rope when walking around the boat.

Should anyone feel seasick they were asked to mention this to a crew member who would help them deal with it. We were instructed to remain in the shaded seating area while the crew prepared for our departure.

2. Helping to Hoist the Main Sail

We left on time and, once clear of the harbour, passengers were invited to assist with the hoisting of the main sail. After that we were free to roam the deck and find a place to sit/stand/lie to enjoy the next few hours at sea.

The Crossing from Dover to Boulogne sur Mer

1. Perfect Conditions for Our Outward Voyage

Conditions were perfect, the wind was blowing in the right direction and we sailed all the way until we were approaching our mooring in Boulogne sur Mer harbour.

Of course, conditions are not always as good as they were that day and the skipper has to decide how to proceed regarding the safety of passengers and the cost of using the motor for the entire crossing should that be necessary due to lack of wind. Sometimes a crossing will be cancelled and passengers re-booked or refunded.

A crossing can last anything between 3 and 5 hours depending on conditions. That voyage took just over 3 hours.

2. Finding My Favourite Place on Board

My initial concerns – would the time pass slowly and would I be sea-sick – were soon set to rest. Once we were free to roam the deck, fastened to it with lanyards, I found a shady corner in the seating area outside the cabin.

I noticed the captain had secured a chair on the deck at the back of the catamaran and, on seeing it suddenly empty, I asked if I could sit there. It was perfect – should I feel sick, which I never did as the boat was so stable – I was close enough to the side to deal with it.

3. Enjoying the Peace of the English Channel

I just sat back and relaxed, relishing the peace of being in the middle of the Channel surrounded by the gentle waves of a calm sea with the wind tugging at the stray locks of my hair. Time passed very quickly once I had emptied my mind of all but the beauty of nature that surrounded me.

I had put on an extra, warm layer as it suddenly became very cold once we had left the shelter of the English coast. Our pre-voyage notes had suggested we bring extra, warm clothing so I had a fleece handy in my rucksack.

I was surprised how happy I could be with my own thoughts, freed from the demands of my iPhone and laptop they could roam at will. Other passengers would often join me for a chat and Dylan was on hand should I require a hot drink or some water.

4. Arriving in Boulogne sur Mer

It was a pleasant surprise when it suddenly got warm as we entered the shelter of the French coast. It was not long before we were moored in the harbour of Boulogne sur Mer. We were greeted by two French policemen who simply checked our passports. As the harbour is in the centre of town it was a short distance to our various hotels, the centre of town and a twenty-minute walk to the train station.

Crossing from Boulogne sur Mer to Dover – A Different Story

1. A Different Experience on the Return Journey

Sailing back to Dover two days later, was a very different experience and took five hours. Slightly alarmed by a violent thunderstorm early that morning I was surprised to discover the sea was still calm when I arrived at the jetty to board Echoes.

As Boulogne sur Mer has a small harbour it was very easy to find. I was really looking forward to this second voyage on Echoes. There were only two other passengers.

Emma, from Switzerland who had her bike with her as she planned to cycle from Dover to John O’Groats. Her bike was already securely stowed inside the main cabin. I had already met Cherie on the jetty and discovered she lived in Japan and had been travelling around Europe for a month.

2. Sailing Back Towards the White Cliffs of Dover

Our departure was slightly delayed as we had to wait for the French police to arrive to check our passports. But that was the only formality and we were soon on our way.

There was not much wind that day and the little there was blowing in the wrong direction. This meant some of the journey was motor powered. It was still very pleasant on board – the gentle hum of the engine did not distract from the joy of being at sea.

We did sail for a while as well. Coming slowly into Dover was a great opportunity to get some beautiful photos of its white cliffs.

How I spent my time in Pas-de-Calais, France

1. Two Nights in Boulogne sur Mer

I had two nights in Boulogne sur Mer where I stayed in a fabulous hotel, La Matelot close to the harbour. As I had already explored the old town of Boulogne sur Mer on a previous visit to France I spent a day exploring Calais which is easily accessible by train as both towns are on the same line.

2. Exploring the Attractions of Calais

Calais has transformed itself into a very interesting destination. Its golden beaches are now fronted by a long promenade with free attractions to be enjoyed by visitors of all ages.

Forget the sightseeing buses here, just climb aboard one of its two monster machines, the Calais Dragon or the Varan of Calais (charges apply).

Cultural and historical attractions include the Town Hall and Belfry and the Lace Museum that tells the story of the famous Calais-Caudry knotted lace.

Street Art lovers will find plenty to inspire in the open-air urban art collection that grows bigger every year during the Calais Street Art Festival. I also enjoyed an excellent lunch at Le Grande Blu, a lovely restaurant near the port of Calais.

I really could not imagine a better way to spend a weekend in France, and leaving only a very faint carbon footprint.